Kalamkari is a traditional Indian textile art with deep roots in Andhra Pradesh, dating back over 3,000 years. The word “Kalamkari” comes from the Persian words “kalam,” meaning pen, and “kari,” meaning craft, a term attributed by the Mughals who encountered the art in the Deccan region. This intricate form of fabric painting uses natural dyes and follows a meticulous 23-step process. There are two distinct styles: the Machilipatnam style, which employs block printing, and the Srikalahasti style, known for its freehand pen work.
The Srikalahasti style, prominent in the Tirupati district, thrives on hand-drawn images, often depicting scenes from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Traditionally, these works adorned temple scrolls, banners, and chariots, embodying a rich cultural and religious heritage. The revival of this style can be credited to Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay, who championed its promotion through her role as the first chairperson of the All India Handicrafts Board.
The Machilipatnam style, also known as Pedana Kalamkari, involves block-printing and vegetable dyes. Originating from the Krishna district, it was recognized as a Geographical Indication (GI) of Andhra Pradesh. Historically, this art form focused on mythological themes, though modern applications now include designs inspired by Buddhism, musical instruments, and flora and fauna.
In contemporary times, Kalamkari has evolved, with some traditional techniques like indigo dyeing and wax resist disappearing. Nevertheless, the craft continues to adapt while preserving its core identity, still utilizing natural materials such as iron acetate and dried flowers for vibrant dyes.
