Phulkari, a traditional embroidery art form from Punjab, was officially granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag on 21st October 2010, following a five-year legal battle led by the Punjab Small Scale Industries & Export Corporation Ltd. The GI tag not only highlights the cultural and artisanal significance of Phulkari in Punjab but also acknowledges its relevance to neighboring states like Haryana and Rajasthan, where similar embroidery traditions are practiced.
The term “Phulkari” literally translates to “flower work,” reflecting the intricate floral patterns that define this embroidery style. Traditionally, Phulkari is stitched on khaddar, a handspun cloth, though modern adaptations now see it embroidered on fabrics like silk, chiffon, and crepe. What sets Phulkari apart from other embroidery forms is its unique use of geometrical floral patterns, created using long and short darn stitches. The hallmark of Phulkari lies in the precision of its stitching, where each stitch measures between 1/2 cm to 1/4 inch, resulting in vibrant designs that are worked from the reverse side of the fabric, without any pre-traced patterns.
Phulkari is more than just an art form—it is deeply symbolic of festivity and auspiciousness in Punjabi culture. There are several types of Phulkari, including Bagh, Sheesha Bagh, Ghunghat Bagh, and Darshan Dwar Bagh, each of which is associated with specific ceremonies or festivals. No traditional Punjabi wedding is complete without Phulkari, with brides and women proudly draping themselves in garments adorned with this exquisite embroidery. Over time, Phulkari patterns have evolved and are now also featured on modern items like salwar suits, jackets, and bags, reflecting the versatility and timelessness of this craft.
The embroidery is done with untwisted silk floss thread, known as patt, and the most favored colors are shades of red, as red is considered auspicious by both Hindus and Sikhs in Punjab. Background colors for the base fabric typically include rust red, madder brown, and indigo, while white was traditionally used in certain types of Phulkari, particularly by elderly women and widows. The Phulkari designs are not merely decorative but often hold symbolic meaning. Geometrical patterns, scenes of village life, animals, birds, and even wheat and barley stalks are commonly featured, representing prosperity, fertility, success, and goodwill.
Historically, Phulkari played a significant role in a woman’s life in Punjab. A girl’s wedding trousseau was incomplete without Phulkari garments, with the number and intricacy of pieces signifying the family’s social standing. The motifs embroidered on these garments often expressed the emotions and aspirations of the bride. The art of Phulkari was passed down through generations, with techniques and patterns being transmitted orally rather than through documented sources.
Today, the GI tag serves as a formal acknowledgment of Phulkari’s cultural and historical value, ensuring the protection of this traditional craft and offering greater visibility to the artisans who keep it alive. It also preserves the authenticity of Phulkari, preventing imitation and promoting the heritage of Punjab’s unique embroidery on the global stage.
