https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Embroidered_textile_from_Nagaland,_Honolulu_Museum_of_Art_13688.1.JPG
History and Background
Known as the Switzerland of the East, Nagaland is a state blessed with natural beauty. Shawls are of extreme importance in the Naga culture and have deep-rooted meanings and specific connotations. The shawls also act as an indicator of their social status and identity. According to anthropologist Mhonyani Sangma, “shawls are the predominant cloth…worn by young and old and the designs…are gender and age-specific.”
The Chakhesang Rira and Rura shawls have been woven since the dawn of time and have unusual patterns made mostly of red, black, and white wool. The purpose behind the gender-specific shawls, the Rira for men and the Rura for women, is profound.
The Chakhesang Women Welfare Society (CWWS), which was founded in 1976, applied for the GI tag for the Chakhesang shawl and received the tag in 2017. It was the third product from Nagaland to get the GI tag. The CWWS processed and dyed natural fibres to bring back the art of traditional weaving. The people of the Chokri, Kheza, and Sangtam tribes make up the tribe; as a result, Cha-khe-sang also contains a number of other tribes, including the Poumai, Sumi, Pochuri, and Rengma. The Chakhesang still goes by the name even if the Sangtam people are no longer a part of it.
Controversy and Future
The Chakhesang Women Welfare Society sued TRIFED and designer Ritu Beri in civil court for improperly depicting Chakhesang shawls in a fashion show. The social and cultural value of Chakhesang shawls is emphasised in the GI standard. Each Naga tribe has its own distinctive clothing, and the shawls represent different aspects of its members, such as beauty, prosperity, happiness, and contentment.
Additionally, many shawl styles are worn depending on the individual’s station in society; some are worn exclusively by women, others by elderly ladies, and others by men. Considering that CWWS had the sole authority to utilise these shawls, CWWS’s issue is related to the use without authorization and the contradictory depiction of the shawl. It is against cultural appropriation, original design alteration, lack of accreditation, and exploitation. CWWS is working to develop ways to prevent others from altering the original designs in an attempt to infuse modern patterns.
References
https://cultureandheritage.org/2022/12/chakhesang-shawl-of-nagaland.html
https://www.outlookindia.com/travel/four-gi-tagged-products-of-nagaland-to-pick-up-when-you-are-there-next-news-242994
