The footwear industry in Agra, with roots dating back to the Mughal era, has grown to become one of the most significant contributors to India’s leather market. Known for its intricate craftsmanship and rich history, Agra boasts the largest footwear manufacturing cluster in the country, creating products that are not only cherished within India but also admired and exported across the globe. In 2023, this historic industry received the prestigious Geographical Indication (GI) tag, marking a new chapter in its journey while acknowledging its cultural and economic significance.
The craft of leather tanning, which is fundamental to Agra’s renowned footwear industry, is an art form that has been passed down through generations. The process begins with the tanning of raw animal hides, a meticulous and labor-intensive procedure. The raw leather is obtained from animals that have naturally died, ensuring sustainability in the practice. To preserve the moist hides and prevent decomposition, they are initially immersed in a salt solution. This stage is crucial, as it keeps the skin intact and ready for the next steps in the tanning process.
Afterward, the salted hides are soaked in a mixture made from the bark of the tarwar tree. This traditional technique is what transforms the animal skin into durable leather. The tarwar tree bark plays an essential role in aiding this transformation by imparting the necessary qualities to the leather. Once the leather is adequately treated and prepared, it is ready for further refinement. The next step involves carefully cutting and polishing the leather, particularly the heels, to give the final product its characteristic appeal. These finishing touches not only enhance the appearance of the footwear but also ensure the leather is waterproof and long-lasting, providing durability and comfort to the wearer.
The GI tag, awarded to Agra’s footwear industry in 2023, is a significant recognition of the centuries-old craft that has flourished in this city. A Geographical Indication tag is not just an honor—it offers legal protection to the products of a specific region, ensuring that no other region or country can falsely claim the authenticity of Agra’s leather footwear. This recognition safeguards the unique craftsmanship of Agra’s artisans, preserving their knowledge and tradition while adding value to their products.
The GI tag is also expected to bring numerous economic benefits to the region. One of the most important impacts is the potential increase in exports. With the formal recognition of Agra’s leather products as distinct and high-quality, international demand is expected to rise. This, in turn, could lead to a significant boost in production and greater visibility for Agra’s leather industry on the global stage. Beyond exports, the GI tag also holds the promise of revitalizing the local economy by creating extensive employment opportunities. As the demand for Agra’s footwear grows, more artisans, workers, and small-scale manufacturers will find themselves engaged in the trade, leading to economic growth and self-reliance.
Agra’s leather industry, with the support of this GI tag, is poised to play a crucial role in India’s “Aatmanirbhar Bharat” (Self-Reliant India) campaign. As India focuses on strengthening its domestic industries, the GI-tagged leather sector in Agra can serve as a model of sustainable, local production with global appeal. Several initiatives are expected to further bolster the industry, including the establishment of raw material depots and Common Facility Centers (CFCs) to provide artisans with the resources and support they need. Specialized toolkits and the training of new generations of artisans will ensure that the traditional knowledge of leather tanning and shoemaking is preserved while keeping pace with modern demands.
These efforts, coupled with government schemes and support, aim to pave the way for the industry’s future growth. Special programs to educate and train artisans, equip them with modern tools, and introduce them to more efficient techniques are expected to result in higher quality products and improved working conditions. The GI tag will also open the door to further investments, with businesses and entrepreneurs now more likely to invest in Agra’s leather industry, knowing the value and heritage associated with the GI-tagged products.
The journey of Agra’s leather footwear industry from the Mughal era to receiving the GI tag in 2023 is a story of resilience, craftsmanship, and heritage. By recognizing and preserving this centuries-old craft, the GI tag not only protects the legacy of Agra’s artisans but also offers a promising future for the leather industry. With growing exports, greater employment, and innovative initiatives on the horizon, Agra’s leather footwear is set to continue leaving its mark both in India and beyond, embodying the perfect fusion of tradition and modernity.
